Saturday, February 2, 2008

AS I DEPART

It is 5am, Sunday, February 3rd and the car service is coming to get me in 2 hours to head back to Hong Kong Airport. Today, I head home.

I was sitting here in my hotel room, reflecting on this trip.

I came here for work. It was a business trip, but unlike any others I have ever been on. I have learned so much since I have been here - so here are some thoughts as my time here comes to a close...



The FOOD

I was both delighted and surprised that I enjoyed the culinary experience here as much as I did. This is NOT American Chinese Take-Out.

The chicken is ALL free range - you see them roaming around free all over the streets.

The beef has never been injected with hormones, or fed with additives or anything unnatural. Makes you wonder about the things we Americans put in our bodies.

The fish, is the freshest I have had since the days many years ago when my father would go fishing off the Long Island Sound and bring home BlueFish or Flounder for dinner.

They do not waste a single part of any animal - Trust me - I didnt actually EAT the gelatinous Pig's Blood (looks like brown tofu) or the Cow Intestines or Chicken Feet - but I saw it on the menu.

There is NO overindulgence here- they only order what they can eat - they never take home leftovers - they dont have to - the portions make sense - they eat the most WONDERFUL vegetables with every meal - and I have not seen a single obese Chinese person since I have been here.

The price of meals is unbelievable inexpensive - Yesterday, I took my guides, Emma and YoYo and our driver Mr.Wong out to a Noodle Room and bought them lunch to express my gratitude for their hospitality. 4 people - 4 noodle bowls, 1 order of steamed veggie dumplings(10 pcs) and a wonderful green veg w/ yellow beans - amounted to $9 US.



I have been tipping way too much - I have the American mentality of the service industry - and while it was only a few dollars to me - to the waiters and waitresses - I tipped them nearly their entire daily wage. My feeling about this is - while it may not seem like alot of money to me - it meant the world to them. That is meaningful to me.



THE HOSPITALITY

Everyone is so nice. The most helpful, attentive service staff I have ever seen, anywhere. In the restaraunts, hotels etc. They always go out of their way to make sure you are happy - The hotel reception women, all knew my name. Maybe it was because I was the ONLY American in the Hotel - but it made a diffence in my experience. I felt welcome in a country not my own.



THE CULTURE

Family - is absolutely the most important thing to the Chinese people. They spend days, during this Lunar New Year celebration - heading north to spend the week with their family. It made me reflect on my relationships with my own family, and grateful that we are so close knit, for they are my lifeline to my history, and have shaped me. - Right now nearly 500,000 people are stranded at railway stations across the country - Yesterday, we were walking thru one of the Rail Hubs in Shenzhen - and I saw hundreds of people, who had been there for many days now. The Chinese version of the Red Cross was bringing them meals, and tea and comfort.

I have learned about the meaning of words, and symbols and statues and hand drawings.

I've learned that the way Americans say Chow Mein is WRONG - We say it like it sounds like "MAINE" - when in reality it is pronounced "Mee-En"

I have enjoyed the awed look on their faces, when I say thank you, in Chinese - pronounced - shay shay - it's the only phrase I have mastered.



THE PEOPLE

The minimum wage in Shenzhen is 800 RMB per month - Which equates to $114.29 USD. They do earn overtime and the workers are now being allowed to Unionize - China has come a long way and conditions are much improved in the factories and towns.

There is still rampant poverty - but you would never know it in their faces. They are such a proud, hardworking people. Sloth is not a cultural option - it is shameful - Americans could learn a great lesson from this.

There are BILLIONS of people in China - and while many of them drive cars - so many also ride bicycles - I have never seen so many bicycles in my life!! They carry EVRYTHING on bicycles - I saw a man, riding a bike down the road - with packages stacked and tied - 6 feet wide and 8 feet tall - I kid you not. Efficiency is the word of the day.

Driving, or being driven, especially in Taxis, is a life flashing before your eyes experience - If my Aunt Elaine were here - we would need to sedate her.



LANGUAGE BARRIERS

We arrogant Americans think that wherever we travel, people should speak English. We think they should be able to understand us and fullfill our every need, in our native tongue. We dont even try to learn from THEM.

In mainland China, almost no one speaks English. Those who do, dont know know very much. I have never espereinced this before. It frustrated me at first- but then I opened myself to learning and changing my approach to communication. How do we communicate, if not with words? So I got creative. I tried to find commonalities, instead of differences - I found other ways to communicate. Sign language of a sort - gestures and facial expressions. I needed asprin, so I went to a store by the Hotel and I couldnt read the labels. So I went to the clerk - put my hands on my head and made a grimacing face - and she completely knew what I needed. All without words - that is until I said Shay Shay. I made a commitment to myself, to work on communicating with others in my life, in a more gentle, non verbal way - Because it is often the silent gestures, the expressions on our faces, that say how we feel and what we want, better than our words.



FINALLY

I am ready to go home - Homesickness has set in, and I am glad to be heading to familiar ground. But my experience here will live with me. I feel forever changed.

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

SNOW AND THE CHINESE RAILROAD

This time of year in China, the populace is headed out of the factory towns in the south, on their way home to their families in the northern provinces to celebrate the Lunar New Year.

It is a mass exodus from the cities that essentially shuts down the entire country for 10 days. Many of these people travel by rail.

The Chinese railway system is antiquated and slow. I'm talkin herd of turtles slow. It can often take several days to get home.

Right now, most of Northern China is experiencing the worst winter weather in 50 years. Record low temps and tons of snow. Good for ski resorts, bad for travel. The railway system has essentially shut down.

As of today, over 500, 000 Chinese people are stuck at the Canton Railway Station among others.
They cant get home. And the weather is getting worse.

The moral of this story is:

I will never again complain, when the LIRR is running late.

NEAR DEATH EXPERIENCE

I am a native New Yorker
I have ridden in hundreds of NYC Taxi's
Once in a while, there are nervous NYC Taxi moments.

But...

Riding in a Chinese Taxi - Frightened my hair white!!!
I have never been so terrified in my life.
I have never been so convinced that I would die in a fiery car crash
as I was yesterday.

There are roads in China
Wide Highways and Byways
And there are lines designating the lanes
I dont think that the drivers see them at all.
they straddle them
they try to fit 2 or more cars inthe same space in one lane
I think that swerving in and out of traffic is a skills part of the Chinese Drivers Test

Semi-trucks have the tendency to STOP - in the middle of the road- when the rest of us are speeding along at 80km/hr

Dont worry if you miss your left turn - the Taxi driver will stop in the left lane
back up
and try again!!

Oh look - pedestrians in the road
Do you think drivers stop for them here??
No
Walking across the road yesterday at lunch
from the factory to the restaraunt
Was like playing a game of FROGGER
Luckily - I won

The moral of this story is:

I will never be nervous in a NYC Taxi ever again.

FRESH MEAT

So...I have had several meals since I have been in China

The fish is, so far, my favorite - the freshest fish, best sushi I have ever had

They catch it and serve it all in the same day


But the other consistant thing is the meat

Pork and chicken especially

The meat tasted BETTER than anything I have ever had

I know that part of the reason is that all the animals used for food

are allowed to roam free

No cages

Seriously, everywhere you walk, especially in the factory areas

there are chickens roaming free in the streets

They also dont feed the animals and fowl with any additives or hormones

And there is one more sure way to know

That the meat on the table is the freshest you can find


Tuesday, January 29, 2008

SO FAR IN CHINA...

...I have seen...
More cars than I ever thought could fit on one roadway
I decided that since there are several BILLION people in this country
that everyone over the age of 4 has a license and isnt afraid to use it

And I have decided that driving is sport in which one decides exactly what the street signs and lights mean

Sometimes - the lights are RED and GREEN at the same time

I cant decide if it means - Go but maybe not - or stop if you want - but everyone else is going.




I have seen...
A man
on a bicycle
dragging behind him
2 large
PIG carcasses
I had ham with breakfast
I think I just threw up a little in my mouth

I have seen...
Chinese Toilets
It's a hole
in the floor
toilet paper
optional
I'm not kidding
They actually do flush
Tho I'm not exactly sure of the point


Words I have learned:

Thank you - Se Se
Hello - Lei Ho Ma
Goodbye - Bye Bye (again, not kidding)
Ough Oy Lei - I Love You

HK to CHINA

So, going from Hong Kong - where East meets West - and everything is huge, and opulant and clean - to Mainland China - has been culture shock even for this American in Asia for the very first time.

In Hong Kong - Everything written in Chinese (Cantonese to be exact) - has English subtitles- thanks to many decades of British rule.

In China - not so much
If I had to find my way around on my own - I would get so lost, you would never see me again.
Shame on this spoiled American, who for a split second thought - "Why isnt everything in English?"

In Hong Kong - if there is poverty- you dont see it anywhere

In China - The poverty is so palpable you can taste it.
Yet...
These same poor people - are some of the proudest people I have ever met.
They hold their heads up
They work on farms and in crowded factories
They dont beg on the street looking for handouts
They feed their families
They dont think they are entitled to a welfare salary
They put back into the world, what they take from it.
They work hard
They play fair
Family is everything.
I think I like them best...

Monday, January 28, 2008

You Cant Make This Stuff Up

I e-mailed to say hey, I'm just a drunk, in town for the night
Point the way to an evening of spirituality and fellowship
I got an e-mail back
from a complete stranger
who knows EXACTLY who I am
she came to my hotel - picked me up
we chatted in the car about
sobriety, the spirit, failure, success, gratitude
I walked into a room filled with slogans and literature
and 12 and 12 on the wall
In CHINESE
I wanted to steal them to take home with me
but that wouldnt have been very sober behavior :)
The meeting space is a full time one
housed in a government building
The Chinese govt charges this group of drunks the exact sum of
$1 - PER YEAR
Yes, you read that right

The accents were different
there were a few other Americans
An Aussie and a Kiwi (New Zealander)
And of course - several Brits
I was the lone New Yorker
The format was a little different
but the program is the same
sharing of experience, strength and hope
reaching out to the newcomer
I shared...
I needed to...
Sitting there, when the meeting first started
I felt overcome by emotion
Tears came down for a moment
as I realized
We are everywhere
This hand lives in all the world
I can never have an excuse to ever take another drink
because no matter what state, what country, what part of the world I may be in
I am responsible
The hand of AA IS always there
and for that
We are ALL responsible